Sunday, February 07, 2010

Vintage 1970s Rare Surf Eze Knit Olive Green and Black Swimsuit Swim Suit


Offered for sale is this very unusual and rare knit bathing suit Surf Eze by Westwood Knit of Los Angeles.

Design is very different and was inspired by Rudi Gernreich who designed for Westwood Knitting Mills from 1955-1960. He is best known for his swimwear especially the monokini. During the 1950s he made his mark in the fashion world by designing the first unstructured women's swimsuit, a form-fitting one-piece with no wire or other supports.

This suit has an olive green wrap front, crosses in the back and ties in the front. There's over the shoulder knit straps which change from green to black at the shoulder. Small knit bottom which appears as a tank in the back and open mid-drift in the front. The bust is lined with removable wired mesh cups. The bottom area is not lined except for a small panty liner.

There are some condition issues. On the right breast area, near the underarm is a mended break in the knit. It has been carefully mended and is hard to find without careful examination. On the left wrap strap, midway, there is several small holes on both sides.

Labeled Surf Eze Westwood Knits of Los Angeles.

Labels a vintage size 12, please check the measurements below carefully. It is really not a modern size 12. Due to the styling it is difficult to determine exact size in inches. Keep in mind there is a great deal of give to this fabric.

The bust cups are large and I think they would accommodate 36C to a 42D. My model is a 34 and it is way too large for her. The hips would run 34 to 40 inches.

Friday, February 05, 2010

Alley Cats Vintage: Guide to Sizing Vintage Clothing

As many of you are aware vintage clothing sizes have changed dramatically over the years. None of us are built alike and body types are just not the same as they were in 1950. Such as a 1960's size 14 is closer to a today’s size 8 with many variations. There are charts to guide you with conversion but that is just a guideline not a definite. If you are seriously interested in purchasing and wearing vintage clothing a tape measure is a MUST. It would be a good idea to take your measurements and keep them at your computer while shopping.

Most sellers will give the exact bust, waist and hip measurements in inches. Another factor to take into consideration is the length from shoulder seam to waist. Taller and shorter women will be aware of this necessity. Have someone do this measurement for you. Measuring on your back, run the tape from top of shoulder to waist and compare to the item, do the same from waist to knee. In 1960 and earlier a petite woman was more common than today. If the skirt is too short, ask the seller if there is extra hem and if it will mark if lowered. Another measurement to consider is shoulder span. If your seller does not have these listed, email and ask.

Factor in the fabric type and assess if there is some give or stretch there. Many of these older fabrics such as cotton, linen and wool, do not have any leeway. Even if they do, do you really want the look to be stretched to the max?

Items sized by Small, Medium, Large or Plus tell you nothing. I’ve seen many size large shirts that wouldn’t fit a 3rd grader and I’ve seen them that would fit a football player. There is no consistency in that type sizing. You will find charts on the internet that give you SML guidelines but that is mainly a guessing game. Stick to actual measurements in inches.


Sizing for vintage shoes is pretty simple. Most sellers measure in inches along the inside of the inner sole. Width is measured on the outside, ball of the foot. Once again you have to take into consideration the style of the shoes. For extreme pointed toes some length has to be knocked off. Heel width is also important for many of us, running narrow to wide. Shoe sizes have not changed that much but as you know from shopping in the mall a size 7 isn’t always a size 7. Measure a pair of your perfectly fitting shoes with that tape measure, and compare to what is stated in the listing. If no size in inches is given, ask before you purchase.

For outerwear, common sense reins. Once you have the exact measurement in inches, leave a little room for clothing that is to be worn underneath. Will you be wearing heavy sweaters or a simple silk dress...makes a big difference.

Hats are basically sized in inches only, style being the major factor. If you are purchasing a pillbox hat, head size does not really matter since it perches on top of the head. Most are worn inside and not for extreme weather so you don’t really even need to consider security or placement factors. Hats that fit down over your head are a completely different matter. Measurements are taken on the inside around the sweatband. Your head needs to be measured exactly where you want the sweatband to fit. For a cloche style hat, measure even lower as shown in the example.

All this takes only a few minutes to exact your measurements and start shopping. Most vintage clothing sellers are only too happy to answer your questions.

Sunday, August 02, 2009

Wonderful Hats from the 1950's...



Beautiful big puff of silk rose petals by Sally Victor.

Sally Victor started designing hats in 1924 at Macy's. In 1934 she opened her own millinery business and became one of the largest hat companies in the USA. Her crowning moment was when Mamie Eisenhower wore her famous pie crust hat to the Presidential inauguration.




A hat of pink roses by Irene of New York


Irene Lentz was best known for her feminine suits and dresses. She designed from the 1930's through her death in 1962. She was known as the dressmaker to the stars , working at RKO and MGM Studios. Her label is very sought after among vintage collectors.





Brimmed felt hat by Lilly Dache, wreathed with roses.


Lilly Dache started designing in the 1920's. She designed for Hollywood designer Travis Banton producing hats to be used in the movie studios. In 1958 she hired Halston to design hats. Interesting fact: her last customer was actress Loretta Young who bought her last hats in her shop